By day, our besieged skin contends with what the cosmetics industry calls environmental stressors like ultraviolet rays, pollution and cigarette smoke. Those stressors contribute to the appearance of aging. So the evening, the makers of overnight skin potions suggest, is the ideal time to repair the damage done. Sleep, my pretty, and wake prettier is the thinking.
“At nighttime, skin does its repair,” said Kristine Cryer, the vice president for product development at StriVectin, which added an overnight serum to its roster this month. “It’s not working hard like it’s working during the day.”
In particular, women worried about losing the battle against time won’t go to bed without a rejuvenating lotion. In the first half of 2009, sales of nighttime facial moisturizers were an estimated $43 million, and sales of specialized nighttime treatments — mostly concentrated serums — totaled roughly $17 million, according to Karen Grant, the vice president for beauty at the NPD Group.
And the number of such treatments is on the rise. So far this year, 55 nighttime skin care products have made their debut in North America, compared with 40 in 2007, according to the Mintel International Group, a market research firm.
When it comes to selling these potions, “re-” is the prefix of the moment, said Taya Tomasello, a senior beauty analyst at Mintel. If a company wants to connote nighttime renewal, it’s as easy as using this formula, Ms. Tomasello said, “RE-insert-verb-here-ING.” Regenerating. Restoring. Resurfacing. The idea is each morning your skin is “a new blank canvas,” she said.
StriVectin’s new $59 Overnight Facial Resurfacing Serum
promises to dissolve gently “surface imperfections, minimizing the
appearance of large pores, evening skin tone and improving the overall
health of skin for a smoother, younger-looking, more vibrant
complexion.”
In the last few months, Estée Lauder has made much ado about so-called “clock genes” in our skin that can distinguish night from day. After repeated exposure to environmental stressors, these genes become “de-synchronized,” slowing the skin’s ability to repair itself, according to the company. Enter its $47.50 Synchronized Recovery Complex, the company’s newest Advanced Night Repair serum, which “makes sure cells work together for optimal repair of all the damage that occurred during the day,” said Dr. Nadine Pernodet, executive director of research and development for Estée Lauder.
There are practical reasons to use certain facial treatments before bed. A serum need not be layered under makeup or sunscreen. Certain ingredients that degrade in light or make skin likely to burn are best used when the sun doesn’t shine. Lightening creams to even out skin tone and some retinoids fit that description.
But there is no scientific proof that skin repair actually ramps up at night, dermatologists say. And skin is capable of juggling multiple assaults by day. “We are constantly repairing our skin and responding to stressors,” said Dr. Jenny Kim, an associate professor of dermatology at the David Geffen School of Medicine at U.C.L.A. “Our skin doesn’t wait for nighttime repair.”
But research has shown that certain physiological changes that happen at night may enhance the effectiveness of some creams, Dr. Kim suggested. Skin temperature rises, as does water loss leading to slightly drier skin. “If your water loss is higher, theoretically due to less of a skin barrier,” she said, a moisturizer “can improve the skin barrier.”SOURCE:NYTIMES.COM


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